The parade of the French firm opens the presentations of haute couture in Paris with a vindication of the clown as a unisex icon.

The week of high-fashion presentations for the spring-summer of 2019 in Paris started on Monday in a large circus tent that Dior erected in the gardens of the Rodin Museum, spectacular stage where the designer of the historic French firm, Maria Grazia Chiuri , presented his new collection. In it he seemed to claim the circus companies, that separate world in which contortionists, bullet men and bearded women coexist, in a distorting reflection of the fashion universe itself, which is also not particularly lacking in freaks.

As usual, the new collection of Chiuri found its origin in the archives of the brand. Its founder, Christian Dior, used to frequent the Winter Circus, covered in the rive droite built in the time of Napoleon III. It was there, a century later, Richard Avedon took the mythical photograph in which Dovima, perhaps the first supermodel in history, appeared surrounded by elephants while wearing a Dior outfit. Decades later, that sad clown named John Galliano was also introduced to the world of circus to design for Dior his collection of the summer of 1997, although the troupe of the Gibraltarian was rather more rogue than Chiuri, who yesterday preferred a certain languor.


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The Dior show also seemed like a concert of different feminities. It started with a performance by Mimbre, a British company formed only by women. And ended with one of its members, a black acrobat with dwarfism, who followed the step of the slender models that wore the designs of Chiuri, in what seemed a subtle nod to the acceptance of non-normative bodies.


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