Alessandro Michele Celebrates Gucci’s 100th Anniversary
Gucci celebrates its first century of existence this year. Its creative director, Alessandro Michele, marked the blow by signing his most beautiful collection for the house.
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The presentation video, titled “Aria” and unveiled Thursday night, is full of nods to the brand’s history – like these riding bombs adorned with the name of the Savoy, which gave rise to Gucci’s DNA. . A young man at the beginning of the last century, Guccio Gucci worked as a bellboy in the large London hotel. After having long admired the opulence and style of the European elites, he decided to create a brand to satisfy their desire for luxury and elegance.
The collection, revealed in a 15-minute video, also marks Gucci’s merger with Balenciaga, another house owned by the Kering conglomerate’s stable. Whether it’s the jackets, blazers and parkas featuring competing Balenciaga and Gucci logos, or even that black leather satchel with logo, the collaboration’s products are sure to flow like little ones. breads.
In the music video, directed by Floria Sigismondi, echo the movie The House of Gucci – a dark murder story shot these days in Italy, starring Lady Gaga and Adam Driver, who tells how Maurizio, Guccio‘s grandson, was murdered by contract killers hired by his wife.
“Here it is happening, as certainly as a toll on the highway. This anniversary. One hundred years have passed. One hundred revolutions which question the course of time,” writes Alessandro Michele in his program, blithely citing writers and philosophers.
In the collection, Gucci gives pride of place to its equestrian roots, with a series of superb jockey jerseys, several of which transform into cocktail dresses closed by high male collars, for boys and girls alike. Or this four-pocket hunter’s jacket, worn – like half of the looks in the collection – with riding boots trimmed with straps and ankle buckles. Alessandro Michele even imagined a new type of jodhpur, with pleats on the front, to support his androgynous look.
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Gucci: Elements of House heritage are ubiquitous on the #GucciAria runway in GG canvas pieces and handbags with Bamboo details. Discover all of the looks in the full film in our IGTV. @alessandro_michele #AlessandroMichele
Many outfits are accessorized with horse harnesses, bits, straps, shrouds, riding collars … The models walk through a giant tunnel, lit by thousands of sparkling flashes, to the sound of a musical selection. reminiscent of the brand’s unrivaled status in popular culture – from Lil Pump’s “Gucci Gang” to Bhad Bhabie‘s “Gucci Flip Flops“.
Especially this large flared military coat, gathered on one side by seven gold buttons, or this series of nonchalant double-breasted suits, worn with flowing pants, or even these sparkling overcoats. which refer to the “diamond pattern” invented by Guccio Gucci himself, but declined this season in the maximalist version of the artistic director of Balenciaga, Demna Gvasalia.
For the evening, Alessandro Michele has moved up a gear, offering in particular ultra-glamorous lace tops with their sleeves in marabou feathers, worn over palazzo pants embroidered with sequins, or this magnificent dress in fishnet and crystal chain, completed by a red diamond handbag, in the shape of an anatomical heart with protruding arteries. The collection showcases Gucci’s fine jewelry collection, represented by gold twig brooches, diamond choker necklaces, cascading necklaces, voluminous bishop’s rings, and nose rings. with double “G”, worthy of a princess of Rajasthan.
Alessandro Michele is not afraid to take risks, and did not hesitate to take the famous red velvet costume imagined by Tom Ford, by declining it in his own way, for men and women, with a dynamic cut, accessories in the form of equestrian harness and collars SM. And the Italian designer does not forget to add a touch of gently transgressive humor in his work, like this white rabbit cradled in the arms of a model with purple hair, dressed in a fully tailored trouser suit. covered with logos, and wearing riding boots.
“In a way, Gucci is for me like a pirating laboratory, made of incursions and metamorphoses. A factory of alchemy, of contaminations, where everything is interconnected … By crossing this threshold, I tapped into the unconventional rigor of Demna Gvasalia and in the sexual tension of Tom Ford, I lingered on the anthropological implications of what sparkles, working on the shine of fabrics, I celebrated the equestrian world of Gucci by transfiguring it into a fetishistic cosmography, I sublimated the silhouette of Marilyn Monroe and the glamor of old Hollywood, I sabotaged the discreet charm of the bourgeoisie and the codes of the male tailor “, explains the designer. We could not agree more.
In his video, everything seems to converge towards a form of apotheosis, when the models – all dashing and sublime – leave the Savoy Club to join a Garden of Eden, populated by white peacocks, cockatoos and stallions, before s ‘fly into space, as if sucked into the sky.
Truth be told, the next time someone tells you that Alessandro Michele tends to repeat himself in his collections, refer him to this video. It’s hard to imagine a more effective and compelling way to celebrate Gucci’s first century.