Channel Without A Luxury Fashion Show “Balade en Mediterranee”
Chanel released the 2020/21 early spring vacation series online, which is the first time in the history of the brand to display the early spring series without holding a fashion show. The series is called “Balade en Mediterranee”, inspired by trips to the islands of Capri and the Mediterranean in Italy. It was originally planned to hold a fashion show in Capri, but later it was released online due to the epidemic.
In the past weekend, Chanel posted a warm-up video and pictures on Instagram, and yesterday officially launched a 7-minute video on IGTV. The launch time of the video was delayed compared to the original plan. The short film shot by the model against the Mediterranean background is more like an advertisement blockbuster than a fashion show.
Chanel has always been known for hosting budget fashion shows on budget.
In 2018, Chanel spent nearly US$1.7 billion on marketing, fashion shows and events, an increase of 9% from 2017. In recent years, in view of the special significance of the early spring vacation series, the head brand represented by Chanel has increased investment in the early spring fashion show.
The early spring vacation series fashion show is considered to be an important opportunity for guests to provide luxury travel experience and build brand image. Early spring fashion shows usually do not choose traditional fashion week cities as the venue, but spend millions of dollars in travel expenses to fly fashion editors, bloggers, celebrities and VIP guests around the world to the show venue on the other side of the globe. Provide luxury vacation treatment. For this reason, luxury brands usually make preparations half a year in advance, and are even more particular about the theme, location and venue setting than regular ready-to-wear shows.
Clothes may never be the focus of the early spring vacation series. Naturally, the brand will not invest too much energy in the fashion design and development of the series. More importantly, it will convey a vacation atmosphere.
However, when the epidemic crisis continues, global racial equality protests erupt, and many countries have not yet unblocked, Chanel’s reiteration of holiday enjoyment seems out of place, and even makes many people feel uncomfortable.
On Chanel’s official Instagram page, three black pictures were sent six days ago to show support for black equality protests. Immediately afterwards, the promotion of the Early Spring series began. It seems to be a metaphor this time as it has been countless times in the past. The luxury brand once again chose to escape to the ivory tower.
Moreover, this time, even if the brand once again came up with the classic saying “Luxury is more in need of dreaming”, it will be difficult to convince the public. People’s focus is no longer attracted by the grand setting of the fashion show, but all on clothes. The strength of the early spring series is not in fashion, and the new art director Virginie Viard is still slowly groping his own style. Chanel chose the most undesirable way to expose weaknesses.
Although mainstream fashion media’s comments on the series have been actively pursued as always, on social media, netizens’ dissatisfaction with this latest early spring series and current art director Virginie Viard has intensified. Such emotions began from the first series she took over, and this online fashion show even amplified such emotions.
“Without a big show on the catwalk, one can’t help but wonder if Chanel’s vacation series is so special?” Author Alexandra Mondalek’s post on Twitter triggered a social media discussion about Virginie Viard’s design. Netizens’ comments were almost one-sided, “It looks like Topshop”, “No one wants to see this kind of clothes six times a year”, “The third Look is the style most people want to forget in the 2000s”, “That I wore a denim suit in the 1990s and I don’t want to go back in time.” Emerging commentator Pam Boy commented on Twitter ironically, “This series has nothing to copy even Zara.”
In the face of Chanel’s headlines such as advertising budgets, industry reviews are rare and sharp. “New York Times” fashion critic Vanessa Friedman wrote, “I even started to miss the big rocket.”
Depth | Chanel without luxury fashion show, or Chanel?
Karl Lagerfeld at the helm Chanel 2017 autumn and winter series built a rocket set on the show
She thinks the series is disappointing on many levels. “If this is how a fashion brand adapts to the changing world, if evasionism is used as an answer, if photos and videos are just trying to imitate what was once, rather than reconstructing new possibilities, if a designer’s statement cannot even Acknowledging the pain and complexity of her consumers, then although the product may be beautiful, the brand has not done its due diligence.”
Under the epitome of making digital changes to adapt to the epidemic, Chanel is essentially unwilling to make changes, but firmly sticks to the old dream of the luxury world. The video is online late, just like the real fashion show will start half an hour later. Vanessa Friedman asked, shouldn’t one of the benefits shown online be its flexibility and adaptability to social events?
Brands could have skipped this season just like many brands, but Chanel would eliminate the difficulties and bring the holiday atmosphere of Capri to consumers. Contrary to the slogan “The show must be paused” in the black affirmative movement, Chanel seems to believe more in “The show must go on”, even though it is online.
Unlike cutting out most of the fashion shows in one fell swoop and announcing the late-coming dark horse Gucci that only meets with the public twice a year, Bruno Pavlovsky, president of Chanel’s fashion department, said in an interview at the same time that the series was launched in early spring, the brand will stick to the six The second release schedule, and unwavering support for Paris Fashion Week.
In the current fashion industry’s comprehensive call for fashion shows to “subtract”, such a countercurrent has caused some people to worry about whether the conservative Chanel will drift away from the awakening consumers, resulting in the loss of loyal customers. Especially considering that Virginie Viard’s design style is gradually deviating from the style of Karl Lagerfeld, the early spring series of advertising blockbuster and people’s inherent impression of Chanel have already entered.
Although Chanel’s conservative attitude may cause suspicion with consumers, and even the design style makes consumers frown, such concerns are still too early. In the past six months, Chanel has proven the anti-fall attributes of head luxury brands in the turbulent era. The brand announced a global price adjustment of 10% to 13%. Not only did it not deter consumers, but it also triggered queues around the place to buy.
The author Sarah Schijen told Paper Magazine that those who have too much money but not enough taste will still become consumers of Chanel. This is why whatever the brand produces can be sold. Chanel is not for the public, not even for fashion people. It knows best who its buyer is.
You know, in the late stage of Karl Lagerfeld’s helm, his clothing design was also criticized. At that time, the products had not been renovated for many years, and almost every season was transformed on the basis of classic tweed suits. It seems that the exploration of the clothing itself has been stopped, and some subtle design changes have been given to the surface of the clothing.
But it turns out that neither the price increase nor the design style controversy have blocked the global enthusiasm given to consumers by Chanel.
According to Chanel’s 2018 financial report released in June this year, Chanel sales soared 10.5% year-on-year to US$11.1 billion, or about 9.8 billion euros, while operating profit increased 8% year-on-year to US$3 billion. By region, Chanel’s sales in the Asia-Pacific market including China soared more than 20% to 4.7 billion US dollars, surpassing Europe for the first time to become the world’s largest market for brands. Sales in the European market last year increased by 8% to 4.3 billion US dollars. Sales in the US market The amount increased by 7% to 2.1 billion US dollars.
As a classic synonym, someone is always willing to pay for the double-C logo, and those relatively conservative wealthy consumers have found a place of ownership and resonance on Chanel.
While Chanel can keep the product moderately innovative, the strategy to maintain the popularity is to continuously invest in the marketing budget and tell new stories for the product. This year coincides with the twentieth anniversary of the release of the Chanel J12 watch. Over the past two decades, there has been no brand that has not invested a lot of marketing budget for the J12 watch for a year before this product has become a best-selling classic.
This is why digital transformation is unstoppable, and Chanel still prefers paper media. Statistics show that in 2014, Chanel put advertisements on 169 paper media. In 2015, this number increased to 174, and there was no sign of reduction in 2016. In November 2017, in order to build the momentum of the 2018 early spring show held by Chanel in Chengdu, the brand almost “contracted” the November covers of VOGUE, T, Jiaren, Figaro, and many major domestic fashion magazines.
Of course, Chanel and the wealthy consumers behind it are not in a calm safe haven and cannot be protected from the outside world.
According to Fashion Business News, the British government has recently announced a list of companies that have applied for loans, and Chanel is also impressively listed. The company obtained a loan of 600 million pounds through the Bank of England. A Chanel spokesperson revealed to the “Daily Mail” that Chanel’s global headquarters is located in the United Kingdom, with a total of 1,600 employees. However, all the stores affected by the epidemic were closed during the epidemic. Therefore, they applied for a loan to deal with the difficulties. Repay within the next 12 months. It is worth noting that Chanel owners Alain and Gérard Wertheimer have a wealth of about 30 billion pounds.
In this case, it is even more questionable whether Chanel should persist in the old world tradition in the turbulent times. The more important the period is, the greater the responsibility of the head brand. It bears the high expectations of consumers and conveys information to the public with every move. But a business built on “classic” and even “conservative” is naturally impossible to betray its believers, this is Chanel’s contradiction.
Chanel has not given a clear answer to the new era, but at least it has proved that the fashion industry without a fashion show will become very scary. Dreaming on social media is not easy.
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Channel Without A Luxury Fashion Show" - /10
Chanel released the 2020/21 early spring vacation series online, which is the first time in the history of the brand to display the early spring series without holding a fashion show.