What is Chanel’s Annual Crafts Show
Hülya karahan: Production Editor
Presented each fall, Chanel’s Metiers d’Art show celebrates the excellence of its various craft houses. Decryption of an unusual event, which reveals the soul of the house on rue Cambon.
This Wednesday, December 4th was held the now traditional fashion show of Arts Crafts founded by Coco Chanel. A parade whose idea belongs to Karl Lagerfeld and which aims to show the extent of French know-how in the field of fashion crafts. This season, Virginie Viard, artistic director of the brand, presented at the Grand Palais her first parade without the famous creator who passed away last February. A collection that pays homage, with modernity, to the particular avant-gardism of this unique fashion house.
A demonstration of excellence
It was in 2002 that the Artistic Director of the House launched this collection rue Cambon, and to celebrate its ten years of existence it presented in 2012 Paris – Bombay, a parade that was inspired by traditional Indian clothing at the time of the last days of the Raj. A commentary on the many brands using Indian crafts where labor is less expensive. He had therefore decided to have all his pieces designed by Parisian craftsmen.
A claim far from new since since 1985, the most famous French House around the world works to safeguard French and European craftsmanship. Lesage and Montex for embroidery, Lemarié for plumasserie, Lognon for pleats, Paloma for blurs, Maison Michel for headgear … Today, twenty-two houses are grouped under the patronage of Chanel. An essential initiative that has continued to question the place of the craft within the French fashion.
I did not want the usual trips for the Metiers d’Art collections, I wanted to stay in Paris. We then had to rethink a way of doing things.
In Handmade with Love In France, a documentary released in 2015, the director Julie Georgia Bernard gives the floor to artisans including Bruno Legeron, creator of artificial flowers: “We do not have the same consideration for us that there are twenty sewing has become like football, the designers at the head of the houses are constantly changing, so they do not have the same relationship to the House or to the suppliers.Sometimes, we went to a House owned by someone, now , we go to a brand “. And it is against this shift that Karl Lagerfeld created the Metiers d’Art. To go even further in the reflection, Chanel will open the doors of its new Crafts site, Porte d’Aubervilliers in the fall of 2020. A building of 25,500 m3 which will bring together 600 people in modern workshops.
If the first two collections were presented in the salons of the house Rue Cambon, Karl Lagerfeld quickly decided to make these parades off-calendar. Tokyo, New York, London, Moscow, Shanghai: Each year, the Arts and Crafts collection is presented in one of the world’s major cities, some of which are intrinsically linked to the story of Gabrielle Chanel. Last year, Karl Lagerfeld returned to New York and took advantage of an episode of podcast 3.55 to talk about the collection, its inspirations and its relationship to creation. This is the last time that the general public could hear the designer speak on a collection.
There is a form of simplicity to go back to Chanel’s ABC. We do not need to do too much.
For the fall-winter 2020 pre-fall, Virginie Viard chose to stay within the walls of the Grand Palais, a museum that could be considered as Chanel’s second home, since all the Parisian fashion shows are presented – apart from the exceptions mentioned above. “I did not want regular trips to the Art Crafts collections, I wanted to stay in Paris, so we had to rethink a way of doing things,” said the artistic director of the house.
Fashion as a treasure
“I want it to be a treasure to wear a Chanel garment,” says Virginie Viard in an Instagram video that unveiled behind the scenes of the show’s creations. A bet managed to see the 71 silhouettes that make up his first collection Metiers d’Art. Under his aegis, Chanel’s black diffuses all its light, it is not synonymous with sobriety but brilliance. He contrasts with white on a tailored jacket, meets a rainbow tie-dye on a leather jacket and swoons in gold.
The Chanel Arts Crafts
Far from limiting her palette to this color that delighted Mademoiselle, we find warm tones that recall a sunset, others that evoke the autumnal leaves when the sun still shines but the cold is inviting. Virginie Viard: “There is a form of simplicity to go back to the alphabet.
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