The World Fashion
After years of male rule, the deal is changing in the world of fashion.
Maria Grazia Chiuri becomes the first artistic director of Dior, Bouchra Jarrar takes over from Alber Elbaz at Lanvin, Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski creates Hermes lines, Christine Phung draws collections for Leonard, Christelle Kocher upsets codes with its creative and uninhibited parades …
What is the difference between a trendy piece designed by a man and a woman?
The answer of Nathalie Rozborski, fashion director at NellyRodi, is without appeal: “The creators have a completely fantasized vision of the woman! They do not draw their inspiration from everyday life, which is anti sexy for them … Sequin dresses, vinyl skirts, it throws, but what woman dresses like that in real life? ”
Conversely, the creators would be more connected to the stakes of the women’s wardrobe: “They imagine holding on them before creating it. Then they make her try on friends, sisters … The process is more honest. ”
Christine Phung confirms: “Before drawing a garment, I project a desire to buy. Then I think about its use: can I sit, run, bend down, climb stairs? ”
A process that she integrated during her very first internship, at Sonia Rykiel: “She preferred for example the V-necks, much more practical than the turtlenecks that we disgorge when removed. ”
The advantage of the creators? Thanks to “their pragmatic, minimalist and functional vision of fashion,” they instinctively know what women want to wear.
Fashion brands that go up
The common point between Wanda Nylon, RA + RE, Pantheone, Sézane and Amélie Pichard? Successful labels, led by women!
And you do not need to be called Gisele Bündchen or Miranda Kerr to wear their clothes: they offer urban silhouettes, easy to live and elaborate in comfortable materials. Which does not mean that the look and the style are not there.
On the contrary, they offer a wardrobe open to all women, whatever their style and morphology.
These brands have clearly grasped the stakes of women’s fashion, to the point that last January, the international fashion show Who’s Next gave them pride. Not because it is a passing trend, but because “women are reaffirming their presence on the creative and entrepreneurial stage,” says the press service of the event.
Another sign of the times, the three main salons dedicated to fashion and accessories (Who’s Next, Fame and Première Classe) are now run … by women.
They offer a wardrobe open to all women
But as Nathalie Rozborski reminds us: “A label is not interesting in itself because it is managed by a woman, but because she is talented and creative! ” Well said.
Brands to follow
These brands know how to make themselves known. Once the collections are out, we first see them on the fashion influencers, proof that the pieces are well anchored in the trends of the moment.
Often, these houses are run by former it-girls, such as Jeanne Damas (Rouje) or Anine Bing (her eponymous brand).
One thing is certain, each has its own style, a way for us to identify with them. Elise Chalmin and Benedicte Kaluvangimoko, from Fille de Joie, play with humor of the codes of fashion. The sign Koché, she likes bright colors and keeps a very street wear appearance where Sezane keeps a part of romantic and bohemian.
Celine Schener and Amelie Picard, specialized in accessories, keep a rock side that sublimates the smallest of our outfits. You understand, these girls know what they are talking about and that’s why we love them so much.